The Broke and Chic Weekend

A letter from Irretrievably Broken just popped up in the electronic mailbag asking for help, not just for planning one dinner party but for an entire broke and chic weekend of deliciousness. This is going to be fun…

Dear Broke and Chic Project,

I am decidedly broke, and I have invited two lovely friends who are decidedly chic to visit me for a weekend this spring.  They will arrive on Friday night and stay through Sunday lunch, and because they are two of my favorite people in the world (not to mention two of the best hosts I have ever known) I want very much to fill their weekend with delicious food and drink.  Their dinner parties are fabulous, their manners are impeccable, their appetite for liquor and food bottomless, and their graciousness is legendary.  Can you help me plan?

I would like to serve something small but fortifying on Friday night, along with a lovely cocktail to refresh and rejuvenate them after their drive.

On Saturday we will have a light breakfast, lunch out at a restaurant, and then (with your assistance) an elegant springtime supper.  (Lamb?  Mint and peas?  Flowers and champagne?)  Cocktails beforehand are mandatory, and I like to serve a digestif after the meal.  (Lately Fernet Branca has been my favorite, but I know it is an acquired taste. I welcome other suggestions….

Sunday calls for Bloody Marys and a late breakfast to linger over.  (I am not averse to the idea of building the menu around the Bloody Marys, though some of us may be in a delicate condition after Saturday night.  At any rate, I like my Bloody Marys spicy and wicked.)

Irretrievably Broken

More to come…

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A Simple, Perfect Shallot Vinaigrette

Borough Hall Farmer's MarketYesterday I went to the farmer’s market in downtown Brooklyn with my friend, Delta, where she gave me a lesson on how to use my new camera. It was gray and overcast but somehow the filtered light seemed to make the vegetables and flowers seem more full of color; the daffodils were a radiant yellow, the spinach a deep, intense green. Farmer's Market FlowersThe market is just starting to come to life and there isn’t too much there yet. Spring onions, lettuce, flowers, some beets and sweet potatoes looked good but what most interested me were the giant piles of shallots. I love to cook with shallots, they are so much more subtle than regular onions. Not that you always want subtlety in food, or life. But I digress…

A friend, who’s a chef, once taught me how to make a simple, shallot vinaigrette which forever changed my salad-making. This recipe reliably produces such a delicious dressing that it takes a lot of convincing for me to put anything else on my lettuce. Or spinach. Or ripe tomatoes.

The vinaigrette has only one trick: time. You need to let the diced shallot steep in the vinegar for at least two hours. While it macerates the shallot breaks down and infuses the vinegar with its essence and the vinegar loses some of its bitter edge. I like to mix it with canola oil, but it’s equally great with olive.

Shallot Vinaigrette

  • 1 medium sized shallot
  • 1/4 cup red wine vinegar
  • salt and pepper to taste
  • 1/2 cup canola or extra virgin olive oil
  1. Diced ShallotsDice shallot finely
  2. Add diced shallot to red wine vinegar and let steep for at least two hours, preferably five.Macerating shallot
  3. Salt and pepper to taste then whisk in oil. Taste and adjust — you might need a little more oil, if so, add by the teaspoon.
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Coq au Vin: 1969

Coq au VinCoq au Vin, iconic star of the 1970s dinner party, used to be ubiquitous on the menus of French restaurants. And for very good reasons. It is delicious, easy to make and perfect for entertaining because you can — you should — make it the day before and let the flavors really intensify overnight. Making Coq au Vin is also a sensual experience; it fills your kitchen with amazing smells, and turns a beautiful dark, almost black color when you add the wine plus you get to set the whole pot on fire when you add flaming brandy to it. I have so much fun making this dish.

The recipe I use is from the 1969 version of Great Dinners from Life. It’s a straightforward, simple recipe. Graves, the author, suggests serving it with braised endive and I give her recipe for that below. But it would also be dinner party perfect with just a green salad in a garlicky dressing, baguettes and a bottle of wine. I think some kind of fruit pie is perfect for desert, too. 

Coq au Vin

Serves 6           adapted from Great Dinners from Life

The extra steps that make this version so good and dinner party-worthy include browning the chicken and veggies, adding brandy (flamed as it is put into the stew) and most crucial of all, removing the finished chicken and veggies from the sauce and then reducing the sauce to about half its former quantity over a quick boil. This last step intensifies the flavor of the sauce immeasurably. Beurre manie is added to make the sauce even richer and thicken it slightly.

  • 3 chicken breasts, halved
  • 6 chicken legs
  • salt and pepper
  • 24 medium mushroom
  • 6 ounces of boiler onions (tiny white ones; frozen are fine)
  • 1/4 cup butter
  • 1/4 pound thick sliced bacon, cut into half inch pieces
  • 1 teaspoon sugar
  • 1 clove garlic, minced
  • 1/4 cup brandy
  • 2 cups dry red wine
  • 2 cups chicken broth
  • 1/2 teaspoon fresh thyme leafs
  • 1 bay dried leaf
  • 1 tablespoon fresh, chopped parsley
  • 1 tablespoon butter
  • 1 tablespoon flour
  1. Dry the chicken pieces and season with salt and pepper. Wipe the mushrooms and remove the stems. Peel the onions (you can easily do this by sticking them in boiling water for twenty seconds, then cooling them in cold water and the skin will slip off in your fingers.)coq au vin
  2. Cook the bacon in the butter in a large casserole or Dutch oven until lightly browned. Remove bacon and drain. Pour half the fat into another frying pan so you can use two pans to brown the chicken.
  3. Add the chicken to the pans, which should be over a medium heat, skin side down, without crowding. Cook until lightly browned on both sides. As the pieces brown, remove them and add more. When all are browned, set aside.
  4. From now on you will only be cooking with the large casserole/Dutch Oven. Put the onions in, add the sugar and cook, stirring until the onions are lightly browned. Then add mushrooms and garlic and cook until the mushrooms are browned.Coq au Vin
  5. Put the chicken and the bacon back in the pot and pour most of the brandy over it. Retain 1 Tablespoonful and put it into a ladle. Light the brandy in the ladle, and pour it flaming, into the casserole to ignite the rest. Stand back! The whole casserole will flame up instantly. When the flame dies add the wine, broth and herbs. Cover and simmer for 30 minutes until the chicken is tender.
  6. Remove chicken, onions, mushroom and bacon with a slotted spoon. Bring the stock left in the pot to a boil, skimming off the fat. Boil rapidly for about 5-10 minutes or until liquid is reduced to two cups.
  7. Mix one tablespoon flour with one tablespoon butter together, then stir this (the beurre manie) into the sauce. Cook until the sauce thickens.
  8. If you are making this the day before, strain the sauce into a separate container and store it and the chicken in the fridge overnight.
  9. To reheat place covered chicken in a 325 oven for about 30 minutes. Arrange on a platter. Meanwhile reheat the sauce and pour over chicken.

cooking notes:

  • You want to get smokey, thick cut bacon if you can. The smoke-flavor is a definite plus. Also, I use closer to a 1/2 pound than a 1/4.
  • The browning of the chicken takes between 2-3 minutes per side.
  • I poach the chicken (step 5) for more like 45 minutes.

Braised Endive

  • 6 medium sized endive
  • 1/4 cup butter
  • 1 teaspoon salt
  • 1/8 teaspoon white pepper
  • 1 tablespoon lemon juice
  • 2 tablespoons water
  1. Wash the endive and trim the base of each stalk. Cut in half lengthwise. Put one inch of water in a 10 or 12-inch skillet and bring to a boil. Add endive, cover and simmer for ten minutes. Remove endive and pour off water.
  2. Wipe pan dry. Melt butter in the same skillet. Add endive, cut side down, and sautée for about 2-5 minutes, until lightly browned. Sprinkle with salt, pepper, lemon juice, and water. Cover the pan and cook over very low heat for about 15 minutes until the endive is tender, adding a little more water if needed.
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Menu for a Vegan Dinner Party

The best-tasting vegan food is food that just happens to be vegan. Perfectly ripe tomatoes with olive oil and sea salt, pasta and bean soup, sauteéd spinach with a squeeze of lemon are some of the most delicious tastes a mouth can experience. That’s why, when I wanted to make a dinner  to serve to some vegan friends, I looked at foods that needed minimal substitutions — in other words dishes that were from their very beginnings built around the flavors of vegetables and grains — not anything that needed mock-animal protein to become an ersatz versions of another dish. I liked Laurie Colwin‘s idea of serving steamed vegetables and green sauce but it seemed, ultimately, too Spartan.

There’s a kind-of Italian theme going here — the menu starts off with an hors d’eouvre to serve with drinks that is one of the best: smashed white bean and rosemary crostini. If you’ve never had them you are in for a treat. The crostini benefit from the alchemical reaction that erupts when you involve olive oil and garlic and rosemary over heat. They are perfect with a kir or a glass of prosecco. It is always wise to make too many of them. The main dish is butternut squash and sage ravioli, an arugula and beet salad on the side, and then a banana cake drizzled in chocolate for dessert.

This is food to linger over.

Menu for a Vegan Dinner Party               for six people

  • Smashed white bean and rosemary crostini
  • Butternut squash and sage ravioli
  • Arugula and beet salad
  • Banana cake with drizzled chocolate

Smashed White Bean and Rosemary Crostini:

  • 1 baguette
  • 1 large clove of garlic cut in half
  • good olive oil for drizzling
  • 1 can cannellini beans (white beans)
  • 2 cloves of garlic, sliced
  • 2 Tablespoons canola oil
  • salt and pepper
  • red wine vinegar (splash)
  • 2 sprigs of rosemary

1 – Slice the baguette into little toasts, spread them on a baking sheet, and bake in a 350 oven for 10 minutes (until they are lightly toasted.) Rub with garlic half and drizzle them with olive oil.

2 – Open and drain the can of cannellini beans. In a large frying pan over a medium heat saute the garlic in canola oil until it is just golden. Add the can of beans, salt and pepper and stir, and cook for about 5 minutes. Stir in a splash of red wine vinegar and then smash the beans with the back of a fork.

3 – Spread the smashed beans on the baguette toasts and top with a needle or two of rosemary.

Butternut Squash and Sage Ravioli:Butternut Squash Ravioli

This is the one part of the menu that has some substitutions. You’ll need a butter-like spread — I used Earth Balance — and some medium-firm tofu. The other ingredient that is crucial here for ease of preparation are wonton wrappers. You have to look carefully when you buy them, though, because some have egg in them and vegans don’t do eggs. If you want to make your own here’s a recipe from Vegweb. However, this process is so much easier with pre-made wonton wrappers that it’s worth hunting them down (at a health food store, or Asian-foods grocer).

For Filling:

  • 2 pound butternut squash, halved lengthwise, seeded
  • 1 medium onion, chopped
  • 1 1/2 teaspoons ground sage
  • 4 Tablespoons vegan butter substitute
  • 1 garlic clove, minced
  • 4 ounces medium-soft tofu
  • 1 Tablespoon olive oil, and more to serve
  • 60 wonton wrappers

Butternut Squash
1 — Pre-heat oven to 425. Put squash on a lightly oiled baking tin, flesh side down and roast for approximately 40 minutes, until flesh is soft. When it cools, scoop it into a large bowl.

2 — While squash is roasting, prepare onions. In a large frying pan melt 2 Tablespoons of the butter substitute and fry onions with sage for approximately ten minutes until the onions are soft and not colored. Season with salt and pepper, add minced garlic and cook for another five minutes.

Butternut Squash Ravioli3 — Add onion/sage mixture, 2 Tablespoons butter substitute, 1 Tablespoon olive oil, salt and pepper, and tofu to the mashed butternut squash. Mix thoroughly so that all the flavors get spread around and the tofu is crumbled. If you are preparing ahead of time you can leave the mixture in the fridge to rest until you are ready.

4 — To make ravioli take a wonton wrapper and mound one tablespoon of the filling in the center. Lightly brush the the edges of the wrapper with water and then press a second wrapper over the first, pressing down around the filling to force out the air and seal the edges. If you want you can trim the dough but I like it square shaped. Transfer the ravioli to a dry kitchen towel.

5 — When you are ready to cook, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Cook ravioli in batches of four or five, until they are tender and rise to the surface, about six or seven minutes. Be careful not to cook too many of them at once — they will clump together!

6 — Serve with olive oil drizzled over them.

Vegan Banana CakeSimple Banana Cake with Chocolate Splatter

This is a delicious, light-tasting cake that you drizzle melted semi-sweet chocolate over. It’s great the next morning for breakfast, too.

  • 2 cups all purpose flour
  • 1 1/2 teaspoons baking soda
  • 1/2 teaspoon salt
  • 1 cup sugar
  • 1/3 cup canola oil
  • 4 ripe bananas
  • 1/4 cup water
  • 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
  • 1 cup pecans, chopped (optional)
  • 2 ounces semi-sweet chocolate

1 — pre-heat oven to 350. Prepare an 8-inch cake tin by rubbing with canola oil and then covering the bottom with a parchment paper circle.

2 — Mix flour, baking soda and salt in a bowl.

3 — Beat together sugar and oil, then mash in bananas. Stir in water and vanilla. Add gently stirring to the flour mixture. Add pecans if you want to use them.

4 — Spread batter into an 8-inch, prepared pan. Bake for around an hour and ten minutes or until a tester comes out clean. Let cool in pan.

5 — Melt chocolate in a bowl: either microwave on high for 1 minute or melt over double boiler. When cake is cooled, remove from pan out on a plate and drizzle melted chocolate all over.

Cooking Notes:

  • You can make the ravioli the day before. Just put them in layers of paper towels and put them in the fridge. Or, you can make the ravioli stuffing the day before and then assemble the ravioli before guests arrrive.
  • The banana cake improves with a day of sitting.
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Tonuca’s Feast: Indian Food for Twenty

Tonuca's luncheon

Photo by Joey O'Loughlin

Last week my friend, Tonuca, had a beautiful lunch party. She invited 23 women over and served us a delicious feast of Indian food. The flavors were light and complex and unusual. Tonuca explained that all the dishes we had were from different parts of the country: a shrimp curry from Goa, which has Portugese and seafood influences; spicy cauliflower and potatoes from the North; and a spinach dish from Bengal. It was food she loved and her mother helped her make everything. I think the very best home cooking outranks the very best restaurant any day, and this was superb home cooking.

To start off everything we had a bellini-type of cocktail made with fresh-squeezed blood orange juice and prosecco. The drink’s tart, orangey flavor perfectly complimented the sour undertones of tamarind in the different dishes. The bubbles were great, too.

Tonuca’s menu could easily work as a dinner. The food is mostly vegetarian (except one shrimp dish) and, in fact, quite a bit of it is vegan which was quite a lucky coincidence as it turned out a few of the women who attended were vegan. They were so pleased.

Tonuca’s menu makes elegant, subtle food that is also, inadvertently, thrifty. For a few of the ingredients in these recipes you will need to go to an Indian or Specialty Grocer [or buy them on-line: tamarind paste, turmeric, garam masala, yellow lentils.]

Tonuca's lunch

Shrimp Patia: A Parsee dish that is hot, sweet and sour.

  • 2 Tablespoons canola oil
  • 1 Cup grated onions (about 1 medium onion)
  • 1 Teaspoon minced garlic, or garlic paste
  • 1 Teaspoon minced ginger, or ginger paste
  • Spice Mixture (grind together the following: 5 whole dried red chiles, 1 Teaspoon ground cinnamon, 4 cardamom pods, 6 cloves, 6 black peppercorns, 1 Teaspoon turmeric, 1 ½ Tablespoons coriander seeds, 2 Teaspoons cumin)
  • 1 Tablespoon chopped, green chile
  • 2 medium tomatoes (canned or fresh)
  • 2 ounces tamarind paste soaked in 1 cup hot water, strained with 1 Tablespoon brown sugar mixed in.
  • ½ pound shrimp, shelled and cleaned
  • 2 Tablespoons chopped coriander

1 – Heat oil in large frying pan over medium heat. Add onions and cook until they are starting to brown. Add garlic and ginger, stir for one minute, until fragrant and then add spice mixture. Sauté for 3 minutes.

2 – Add green chiles and tomatoes, sauté, until tomatoes are soft. Then add the tamarind/sugar mixture and ¼ cup of water. Add shrimp and cook 3-5 minutes until they are cooked through. Garnish with cilantro.

Cauliflower with Peas and Potatoes: a North Indian dish

  • 1 Tablespoon canola oil
  • 1 Teaspoon cumin seeds
  • 1 Teaspoon minced garlic
  • 1 Teaspoon minced ginger
  • 2 medium potatoes, peeled and diced
  • ½ Teaspoon turmeric
  • ½ Teaspoon paprika
  • 1 Teaspoon ground cumin
  • ½ Teaspoon garam masala
  • Salt to taste
  • 1 pound cauliflower, chopped into florets
  • 1 cup fresh or frozen peas
  • 1 Teaspoon chopped fresh cilantro

1 – Heat oil in skillet over medium heat. Stir in the cumin seeds, garlic and ginger. Cook one minute until the garlic is lightly browned. Add the potatoes. Stir in the turmeric, paprika, cumin, garam masala, and salt. Cover and continue cooking for 5-7 minutes, stirring occasionally.

2 – Mix cauliflower and peas into the potato mixture. Reduce heat to low and cover. Stir occasionally, cook for ten minute, or until potato and cauliflower are softened. Garnish with cilantro.

Yellow Lentils (Toor):

  • 1 cup yellow lentils
  • 3 cups water
  • ½ Teaspoon sugar
  • ½ Teaspoon turmeric
  • ½ Tablespoon canola oil
  • 1 Teaspoon cumin seeds
  • 1 Bay Leaf
  • 1 dried red chili, crumbled
  • ½ Teaspoon grated fresh ginger

1 – Boil yellow lentils with water until smooth. Stir in sugar and turmeric.

2 – In a separate frying pan heat oil over medium heat. Stir in cumin seeds, bay leaf, dried, crumbled chili, and ginger until heated through.

3 – Stir spice mixture into the warm lentils and serve.

Tonuca's party

Photo by Joey O'Loughlin

Blood Orange Cocktail:

  • 1/4 cup Cointreau
  • 1 cup freshly squeezed blood orange juice
  • 3 cups prosecco

Gently stir all three ingredients and serve.

Notes:

  • Tonuca served lots of fluffy, white basmati rice with the food.
  • For dessert you could put out caramels, some sliced fruit and/or chocolates.
  • Tonuca’s friend, Nidhi, is developing her own spice line and has generously offered to give spice packets to anyone who is interested in trying them out and doing a little recipe testing (email me at brokeandchic@gmail.com if you’d like one.)
  • The spinach dish from Bengal will be posted soon!
Tonuca's drawing

Photo by Joey O'Loughlin

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Easy Pineapple Chutney

PineappleWhen I lived in Papua New Guinea I loved watching the pineapple plants, waiting for the little nubs that appeared in the mass of spiny leaves to grow into fruit. They seemed to take forever and then, all of a sudden, one morning the fruit was there, bulging, green and yellow. My friend, Doni’s, mother would cut a pineapple off its thick stem and slice it in half for us, quickly shaving off the skin with her machete. And the taste of the pineapple, the sweet-sourness of it, light and fragrant, seemed like the best thing in the world.

One of the ways I like pineapple now is spicy. I think there’s something about adding heat to pineapple which gives it another dimension of flavor — it somehow seems bigger. This pineapple chutney is incredibly easy and fast to make and the red pepper and cumin give it real depth and complexity. It is perfect with shrimp, fish, pork of all stripes, anything with Jerk seasoning or grilled, including hamburgers. I know someone who likes to put a dab of it on top of a plain, strong chevre to make a cracking hors d’oeuvre. It really makes an ordinary chop into something special.

This is an especially easy chutney to make if you can find a bag of frozen pineapple in the grocery store. I wouldn’t use canned but frozen is perfect. You can make it a day ahead and it will get even better.

Easy Pineapple Chutney

  • 2 Tablespoons canola oil
  • 1 medium onion, peeled and chopped
  • 1 2 inch piece of fresh ginger, peeled and sliced into sticks
  • 1 Tablespoon ground cumin
  • from 1/4 to 1 teaspoon red pepper flakes (this really depends on your taste in spicy)
  • 1/2 cup rum
  • 1 1 pound bag of (defrosted) frozen pineapple or 1 whole pineapple, cored, peeled and chopped into bite-sized pieces
  • Juice of two limes
  • 1/2 cup of cane sugar
  • 1/2 bunch of chopped cilantro (optional)

1 — Sautée onion, ginger, red pepper flakes and cumin over medium-low heat for 15 minutes, or until onion is soft but not brown.Pineapple Chutney

2 — Add 1/2 cup rum, cook until it’s boiled off, and the onion mixture is just moist.

3 — Add the pineapple, lime juice and sugar. Mix until everything is fully coated then cook for another 10-15 minutes.

4 — Let cool. Optional: stir in the chopped cilantro. Serve warm, room temperature or chilled.

Easy Pineapple Chutney

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Homemade Cola Syrup

Cola SyrupMy friend Nelle has started making her own Cola Syrup and yesterday she invited me over to watch her in action and sample the brew. What a revelation homemade Cola is. It has a light, floral flavor and you can taste vanilla, lavender flowers and the citrus zest but it is distinctly, and most definitely, a Cola.

Originally developed by a morphine-addicted Civil War veteran who was trying to cure his addiction, the Coke recipe was one of the most intensely guarded secrets in the history of business. It is never written down and only two people in the world (at a time) know how to make the syrup! And they don’t fly together in case the plane crashes. But this past February some producers at This American Life came across a newspaper article from 1979 with a photograph of John Pemberton’s (the Civil War veteran-inventor) recipe. You can see the recipe and read more about it here .

I have to say the recipe she uses read like tricky chemistry to me until I saw Nelle in action. Making your own Cola actually is (once you have the ingredients) easy and fast and the end result is amazing, unlike any Cola you have had before. It makes a wondrous Rum and Coke and occurred to me, as I sipped away last night, how much fun it would be to serve them at a summer-time dinner party.

Nelle’s Cola Syrup

  • 2 cups water
  • 3 teaspoons orange zest (about 2 oranges)
  • 3 teaspoons lime zest (about 2 limes)
  • 2 teaspoons lemon zest (about 1 lemon)
  • 2 pinches ground cinnamon
  • 2 pinches ground nutmeg
  • 1 point of Star Anise (crushed)
  • 1/2 teaspoon dried lavender flowers
  • about a 1 inch x 1 inch piece of fresh ginger, peeled and sliced
  • 1 1/2 inch piece of vanilla bean — seeds scraped out and bean
  • 1/4 teaspoon citric acid (most health food stores sell it)
  • 1/2 teaspoon caramel coloring (optional)
  • 15 ounces superfine cane sugar
  • 3 level, packed teaspoons of light brown cane sugar

1 – Clean and sterilize a glass jar that can hold 24 ounces. You want to make sure you store the syrup in glass — plastic imparts an odd taste.

2 – Simmer the above ingredients minus the sugar for 20 minutes, covered.

Cola Syrup

Mixed Sugars with Caramel Coloring

3 – Mix the sugars together in a bowl. If you want to use caramel coloring, sprinkle the caramel coloring over the sugars.

Straining Cola Syrup4 – Strain the liquid (which looks kind of gross at this point and doesn’t yet smell like Cola) through a cheese cloth into the bowl that contains the sugars. Gently stir to dissolve the sugars. Let cool and store in your glass jar.

Syrup Making Notes:

  • If you don’t use caramel coloring the syrup turns out a kind of watery, tan color. It’s purely an aesthetic thing, doesn’t effect taste one way or the other.
  • You can make superfine sugar (called caster sugar in the U.K.) by running regular, cane sugar through a food processor for about 30 seconds.
  • The ratio of syrup to seltzer is 1:4.
  • All of the ingredients total about $6.50.
  • You can find caramel coloring (which is used to make pumpernickel bread that dark brown) here, and citric acid here.

Nelle Gretzinger Cola Syrup…There’s no caffeine in this recipe…

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After Party: Smartcuts for Cleaning

Kitchen SmartcutsThere is that inevitable moment, when all your guests leave and you are faced with a mountain of dishes, dirty wine glasses, pots and pans when you wonder, “wait, why did I think it would be fun to have a dinner party?” This is not the moment, in my experience, to begin cleaning. As strange as it may sound I think this is the exact moment to relax and maybe just do a little “organizing”; clear plates, scrape them, blow out the candles, move all the pots and pans to one place. It is just so much better to face the dirty dishes the next morning, cup of coffee in hand, the new day shining down.

I collected some of my favorite smartcuts for cleaning up after a dinner party which I truly hope will help you as much as they’ve helped me reckon with the after-the-party wreckage in my apartment…

Removing Stuck-on Bits From a Pan or Pot:

  • Fill your dirty pan with water, then pour in 1/4-1/3 cup of baking soda.
  • Put on a medium flame and simmer for at least ten minutes. The stuck-on bits will start to loosen.
  • Remove the pan from the heat, pour out the water and wipe clean with a sponge.

For Really Badly Burned Pots and Pans:

  • Do the boiling baking soda trick (above) to get rid of as much baked-on gunk as you can.
  • Fill pan with cold water and 2-3 Tablespoons salt. Let sit overnight.
  • Bring to a boil the next morning. The burn marks should disappear

For Stained and/or Stinky Dishes, Cups, Plates:

  • Soak the stained/stinky dish in water that has one Tablespoon of Distilled White Vinegar mixed in. This method works especially well on tea stains.

The Splattered Microwave:

  • Heat an uncovered bowl of water and the juice of one lemon for 5 minutes to loosen the splatters.
  • Wipe down the inside with a solution of one cup water and 2 Tablespoons baking soda.

Wax Stuck in Glass Votives:

  • Place glass votives in the freezer for about an hour or two. The wax shrinks and then pops out of the votive. I do this with my silver candlesticks, too.

Oven Maintenance:

  • Instead of doing a major cleaning, wipe down your oven with a solution of warm water and 1/4 cup baking soda. This keeps the oven decently clean for longer periods in between full-on Easy Off sessions.

My favorite products for after party cleaning: Baking Soda, White Distilled Vinegar, Bon Ami [F. Scott Fitzgerald used it to clean his writing studio (!) and it's non-toxic and biodegradable], salt, lemon juice, some good tunes and a pot full of strong coffee…

F. Scott Fitzgerald

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Watercress Soup

Watercress and Greenpea soupWhen I was a little girl I lived in a remote village, right at the edge of a rainforest, in the mountains of Papua New Guinea. Since there were no schools, I spent most of my time playing with my friends, running around the huge kitchen gardens where the women and the children were. One of my most vivid memories of Papua New Guinea is the flavor of the foods — the flavors of the rainforest. One of my favorite things was the pools of  water by the sides of the road that were covered in lush, green watercress. My friends and I would pick the tender leaves and munch on them. The watercress in Papua New Guinea was intensely peppery, almost spicy hot. I’ve never quite tasted anything like it ever since.

I still love watercress, but now mostly in soup. The amazing thing about watercress soup is that you can eat it chilled or hot and its equally delicious. I think it tastes much better after a night in the fridge so it’s great as a make-ahead for a dinner or lunch party. You can make it vegetarian by using vegetable stock instead of the chicken, but if you want a vegan watercress soup try this one. I think with this particular recipe you lose a lot without the sour cream and milk.

Watercress soupWatercress Soup     serves 8

  • 2 Tbs unsalted butter
  • 2 small white onions, roughly chopped
  • 2 leeks (white part only), roughly chopped
  • 2 celery stalks, trimmed and roughly chopped
  • 2 potatoes, peeled and roughly chopped
  • 4 cups chicken stock
  • 1 1/3 pounds watercress (about 2 bunches from my Green Grocer)
  • 1 1/4 cup milk
  • 8 oz creme fraiche or sour cream
  • drizzle olive oil

1 – Melt the butter in a saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion, leek and celery. Cook gently, stirring, for 10 minutes or until everything is soft but hasn’t colored. Add the potatoes, pour in the stock and bring to the boil. Reduce the heat to medium and cook, uncovered, for ten minutes until the potatoes are tender, then add the watercress. Simmer for ten minutes, then take off the heat and add the milk and about 1/3 of the sour cream.

2 – Using a hand blender (immersion blender), whiz the soup until its smooth. Taste and season with salt and pepper. Let the soup cool and then refrigerate over night. When you are ready to serve either heat up the soup or pour it chilled into bowls and put a dollop of the sour cream on the top and then drizzle a little olive oil.

Watercress soup

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Menu for a Family Dinner

Family DinnerThis menu isn’t really for a dinner party but more for when you are in the mood to have some friends over for a really tasty, casual meal. It’s designed to tempt the taste buds of multiple generations: the turkey breast is roasted with herbs and mustard and garlic giving it a sophisticated yet very child friendly profile and the chard gratin is out of this world. I always thought gratins involved cheese but boy, was I wrong. This gratin, from Alice Waters’, The Art of Simple Food, is a wonder. The first time I made it it felt like highwire cooking –– how could it turn out well without cheese (I think like this often)? But the gratin, lighter and more complex than you’d expect, is a serious crowd pleaser.

Cake for desert makes it a party and I was besieged by requests (well, just one really persistent requester) to make the Espresso Cake again so here it is on the menu. Equally delicious would be Strawberries in Vodka and Cream.

Family Dinner with Friends

Mustard and Herb Roasted Turkey Breast

Mustard and Herb Roasted Turkey Breast   serves 6

  • 6 – 7 pound, bone-in, skin-on turkey breast
  • 2 large garlic cloves
  • 2 Tbs powdered mustard
  • 2 sprigs fresh sage
  • 1 twig fresh rosemary
  • 2 branches fresh thyme
  • 2 tsps salt
  • 1 tsp pepper
  • 2 Tbs olive oil
  • zest of one lemon
  • juice of one lemon
  • 2 cups white wine

1 – An hour before you want to put the turkey in the oven (3 hours before you want to eat) take the breast out of the fridge.

2 – Make the mustard-herb rub by either combining all the ingredients in a food processor until you have a paste, or by chopping the herbs and mixing with the rest of the ingredients. Carefully lift the skin up, off the turkey breast and slather the rub under the skin and then over it. Place the turkey breast on a rack in a pan and pour the wine underneath it.

3 – Pre-heat oven to 325, then roast for two hours, until a meat thermometer reads 165. When it’s done, let the turkey breast sit for 20 minutes under some tinfoil.

Chard Gratin       adapted from The Art of Simple Food

  • 3 bunches of chard, washed and stemmed
  • 2 cups of fresh breadcrumbs, tossed with 2 Tablespoons of melted butter toasted in a 350 oven until lightly brown (7-8 minutes)
  • 2 diced onions
  • 4 tsps all purpose flour
  • 1 cup of whole milk
  • a dash of grated nutmeg
  • 4 tsps butter

Swiss Chard at the Market1 – Save half the stems of the chard. Slice them thin, then bring a pot of salted water to boil. Boil the stems first, for about two minutes, then add the leaves and cook for about 3 minutes (until they are wilted.) Drain and cool. Gently squeeze out the excess liquid.

2 – Melt 3 tablespoons of butter in a big frying pan and then cook the onions over medium heat until they are translucent (about 5-10 minutes) but not browned. Stir in the chard and season with salt. Cook for 3 minutes and then sprinkle the flour over the onions and chard mixture. Stir to combine. Then add the milk and the nutmeg.

3 – Cook the mixture for around 5 minutes. Add more milk if the mixture gets too thick: it should be moist but not floating in liquid.

4 – Butter a baking dish. Spread the chard mixture evenly in the dish, dot with the butter, and then sprinkle the bread crumbs all over the top.

5 – Bake in a 350 oven for 20-30 minutes (I did this while the turkey breast was resting) until it’s golden and bubbly.

Do Ahead:

1 – I prepared the chard gratin 2 hours ahead of time and popped it in the oven when the turkey came out. I think it actually improves the taste to let it sit and that way you aren’t cooking when you want to be sipping wine and talking.

2 – Parboil the potatoes half an hour before you pull out the turkey. That way they can be on baking tins and go in the oven with the gratin and be all roasted and hot when you carve the turkey. I love both Jamie Oliver’s “perfect roast potatoes” and the ones from Clotilde Dusoulier.

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